In practice, the vast majority of film can be developed for the same time regardless of the format. If the images are not really black but neither is the film tip nor the frame numbers you seem to have exposed right but the film is underdeveloped. You may also want to consult the manufacturer’s own data sheet to see if you can learn more. You will notice that the dried print is darker than it was when wet so you want to aim a bit lighter when judging the print swimming in the fixer. If this does the fix your negative needs to be developed differently. Producing a good and easy to print negative is the goal of any black and white photographer. So you keep the temperature the dilution ratio the developer the film the agitation rhythm the room temperature! If it is the middle negative your lightmeter reads correctly and your development is off.
While some manufacturers, most notably Ilford and Fuji, provide excellent data based on their own in-house analysis, many other manufacturers are far less thorough. If the images are not really black but neither is the film tip nor the frame numbers you seem to have exposed right but the film is underdeveloped. I have a data sheet that states a different time to the one listed in the chart. User submissions are always specific to the film size, and don’t usually cover all sizes. Try to produce a good negative and play around with the grades on your paper, try lith printing or hard working developers or toners to create special effects. If it is the last negative overexposed by 1 stop your camera lightmeter tends to underexpose the film which most lightmeters do and you need to adjust it e. Wherever possible times have been listed which rely on the standard technique of seconds continuous agitation after immersion, followed by seconds three inversions per minute thereafter. You may also want to consult the manufacturer’s own data sheet to see if you can learn more.
Where there is significant information suggesting that a published time is inaccurate, we have replaced this time with third-party data see FAQ below for more info. If it is the first underexposed by 1 stop your camera lightmeter tends to overexpose your film and you need to adjust it e.
So when they got e. If you wanted to take a given time as fixed number you would need to make sure that you: Promise You are allowed to change the exposure time by varying the time on your enlarger timer.
If you study official data sheets you will notice that manufacturers often update the times even though no changes have been made to their products. If you increased both by a minute your short developing time is extended by much more than your long developing time. Ilford’s published times for development of Ilford films in ID have been preferred to the Ilford times for D, as the manufacturer’s data for its own product line has undergone greater testing.
All times listed are in minutes using decimal format. Never change two factors at a time. A good print from a perfect negative should show bright white, deep black and all shades of grey on a grade 2 paper. These developers do not have a stock solution.
More about film developing
If you encounter two times which are contradictory ie. While you are adjusting one factor always keep all other factors constant! Why is there a time listed for one film size eg. The first frame you shoot at minus 1 one f-stop less than your lightmeter indicates the second frame you shoot exactly how your lightmeter indicates and the last one plus one which is one f-stop plus. Are the times for D and ID the same? Data like this should always be treated as a guideline because of the tremendous number of variables involved.
I have found the two pieces of data that conflict, which one is correct? All of the data we have is in the chart. To some extend over or underexposed negatives can be compensated by changing the paper grade but this is something you should try after you know how to create a correctly developed negative. One combination might work well in flat lighting, but be unsuitable for high-contrast scenes.
If you have bad negatives from your first years in the darkroom you can forget about these prints forever. When you have shot and developed a roll exposed with bracketing try to judge which negative is always the best from the set of three.
There are many factors influencing the development process.
ADOX | Rodinal / Adonal
Trusting something just because it is printed by the manufacturer is does not offer any guarantee of accuracy. Obviously you want to do this with no film in the camera.
Stock solution is the working strength developer without additional dilution. In the vast majority of cases we list the most up-to-date times from the manufacturer; however, there can be several reasons for discrepancies including: Data published by manufacturer is inconsistent In some cases data sheets produced at different times, or in different locations show different data.
Please use these times as starting points only. Lay out the final print under good daylight conditions to make a judgement. You are allowed developnig change the exposure time when figuring this out but you need to keep everything else constant does this sound familiar? In every instance, if no time is listed for the format you are using, then use the time listed for another size as your starting point.
Any starting point time for one is good for the other. If the print is too dark overall or too white you need to adjust your exposure time. Conversely, Kodak changed many times when they modified the film base on several products a few years back, but other published studies showed that the original times were adoox accurate.
The most important part of any issues regarding accuracy of development times is to understand that ALL times are starting point recommendations, regardless of the source, and it is up to the individual user to use these starting points to determine the optimum development in relation to subject contrast, print contrast and enlarging equipment. While some manufacturers, most notably Ilford and Fuji, provide excellent data based on their own in-house analysis, many other manufacturers are far less thorough.
Although many of the times listed on the chart are supplied by the manufacturers, quite a few of them are independent submissions, or data which I have collected from my own work or other sources. User submissions are always specific to the film size, and don’t usually cover all sizes. In the early ‘s Agfa produced different data sheets for Rodinal in the US, Europe and Australia, sometimes showing wildly different times. If your negative is developed correctly it should print on a grade 2 paper or on a multigrade paper with the filter 2 in the filter drawer or the corresponding filter values chosen on your colour head with the full tonal scale.
If this does the fix your negative needs to be developed differently. Is the information in the Massive Dev Chart reliable? If it is the last negative overexposed by 1 stop your camera lightmeter tends to underexpose the film which most lightmeters do and you need to adjust it e.
CHS I Discontinued: Kodak’s data sheet specifies 3 minutes, but so many people have found this to be short that it is widely agreed that a time of 4. Because it incorporates the official information that you will find in the manufacturer’s data sheets, AND it includes additional user submissions and amendments. All you need to do is to adjust the developing time from whatever table on the next roll by changing it while keeping everything else constant.
Wherever possible times have been listed which rely on the standard technique of seconds continuous agitation after immersion, followed by seconds three inversions per minute thereafter. We publish the developer manufacturer’s data in these instances. The best way to figure this out is to make a print from your negative on a grade 2 paper.
I have a data sheet that states a different time to the one listed in the chart.